Jordan: Jerash; The Temple of Artemis, Temple of Zeus and Hadrean's Arch

View from Jerash Hippodrome, looking up to the Temple of Artemis

In Sid Meier's Civilisation V – a game that has probably started as many arguments at the Clam Pitt as it has finished – there is an achievement for the civilisation that builds the Temple of Artemis and the Temple of Zeus in the same city.

Now I know why that is; they’re both in Jerash.

 

Hadrean's Arch welcomes you to another world.

Walking through Hadrean’s Arch – an impressive monument in itself – the Temple of Artemis is visible in the distance atop a small hill, above a columned parade linking it to a paved circle in the midground. In the foreground on the left is a well preserved hippodrome where gladiators fought and chariots raced. The Temple of Zeus is obscured by this, but overlooks the paved circle atop a different hill. 

A thriving member of the Roman Decapolis (ten reasonably autonomous middle eastern Roman city states 2000 years ago), Jerash fell into ruin in the 8th century after a series of earthquakes. In spite of this, it is broadly considered to be the best preserved Roman city outside of Rome. Allegedly, Crusaders used the Temple of Artemis as a fort at one stage, most likely because it met their exacting requirements of four-ish walls and is notionally on top of a hill. They clearly weren't that fussed by the other taller hills immediately beside it.

Temple of Artemis

Were it not for the conspicuous bins, lights and signs it would be completely otherworldly. The compound is about four kilometres long and maybe half as wide, taking a few hours to explore on foot.

Frankly, it’s fucking awesome.

Within the compound there are mostly intact auditoriums, ruins of cathedrals, the ancient colonnades are incredible and each of the major temples – Artemis and Zeus – are very well preserved. Not unlike Hongcun or Xidi in China walking through here commands considering life in another time, although this takes you back a further millennium.

The Temple of Zeus also would have made an adequate fort!